Category Travel

In Search of Orion

I’m leaning out of the window of a bus which is hurtling much too fast down a very narrow, very bumpy mountain road. Directly below me, the land drops abruptly away, the bottom of the mountain swallowed by a darkness so heavy I can feel it. The wind whips at my hair, and the silhouetted […]


The Redneck Riviera

I wanted to go home, home-home, England-home, Queen’s English and hot tea and rude strangers home. I wanted to float out across the horizon, to tread the invisible line between surging coal-dark sea and soaring coal-dark sky.

Searching for Home

I am going home in nine days. There are nine days left before this five-month-long adventure comes to an end. Nine days left of hostel-hopping, mountain-climbing, and beach-bumming. Nine days left before I have to contend with that most terrifying of words: stillness. I will arrive back in England to rain, Christmas time, and the […]


Stop Telling Me To Be Afraid 

“Oh but of course, dont go there alone.” I stare at the woman in disbelief. She has just spent the last half hour regaling me with tales of her own adventures in South America several decades ago. She goes straight for the most dramatic details, the stories that are so fun to tell you forget […]


Mercado de Las Brujas

There are lines
In the faces of the women
Like ancient tree roots
Grown from the shadows of old sorrows.


Springtime in Cochabamba

If I tilt my head skywards I can see an obnoxiously large Burger King sign looming down from the left. I keep my eyes trained on the ground. On the birds and the fallen petals, the mottled shadows patterning my path. The signs of springtime.


Freeing the Bird

When I landed in Rio almost two months ago, staring into the void of an ‘indefinite trip’, I began to listen to Lynard Skynyrd’s ‘Free Bird’ obsessively. I had not been ready to leave England, either emotionally or practically. Due to a combination of unfortunate, unexpected circumstances and my natural talent for disorganisation, my ‘preparation’ […]